Steinberger r-trem manual

What's new New posts New media New media comments Latest activity. Media New media New comments Search media. Merch Shop. Members Current visitors. Log in Register. Search only containers. Search titles only. Search Advanced search…. New posts.

Search forums. Log in. Explore Magazines. Editors' Picks All magazines. Explore Podcasts All podcasts. Difficulty Beginner Intermediate Advanced. Explore Documents. Steinberger R-Trem Instructions. Uploaded by Marco Giai Levra. Did you find this document useful? Is this content inappropriate? Report this Document. Description: Steinberger R-Trem Instructions. Just as we are shunned by the Steinberger American made fundimentalist community. Also, I have seen the R-trem get knocked-off of the post that the trem pivots on.

This can happen if the trem is moved around alot, with the strings off. If it was off on the treble side, it could cause the High-E to not reach it's saddle. As far as having to "dive-bomb" the trem to get the strings on, it's something that I have never had to do, if I had the correct string set. I managed to snag one of the aftermarket string adapters that show up on Ebay from time to time Worth every penny, no matter what the 'fundamentalists' say.

After about five years, the unit on mine GU-7R no longer resets back to 'zero' no matter what I do. I've determined that either A the trem post on the high E side is no longer the correct shape or B the knife edge has dulled. I was just discussing this with a luthier friend of mine that does some headless guitar work and uses R-trems I'm not sure if you've taken the bridge apart, but if release the tension on the trem Holy shit my fulcrums had semi-circles cut into them from wear.

This does a few things: the bridge sits closer to the front of the route, digging into the wood there, while also reducing the trem tuning stability and its ability to return to zero, as mentioned. I've pretty much kept it locked since then.

The ability to buy new fulcrums would be freaking awesome! Might look into how much to have them machined and maybe sell them on ebay or something, dunno. Anyway, what's a thread without pics Yeah, the string is certainly not reaching it's saddle.

What you've described here is probably what has happened, because I've tried 2 different sets of strings now, with the same result. Also, this is the first time I've tried to replace the strings.

Traditional knife edge trem. A completely different design from Trans and S-Trems, it also allows for more fixed bridge like operation when locked. It was made specifically as a more economical read cheaper option and was featured on the lower end GR line of guitars. Now offered on the wood neck Spirit line from MusicYo. Modified knife edge R-Trem design which included a knife edge nut.

It was made specifically for the GS headed guitars. This design eliminated the need for a clamping nut ala Floyd Rose. Pic albeit fuzzy of a GS Z-Trem. Ned's most 'recent' trem design was a more basic knife edge design with a better system for locking the bridge. Very few were made and they were installed only on the GS headstock guitars. Rumor is that most of these went overseas to Australia and the Far East. Ned claims this is the best design for those who complain that trems kill sustain, as it comes closest to providing 'fixed bridge' results when locked.

Whereas the Trans and S-Trems have a bearing and shaft unit that provides the pivot point, a knife edge trem consists of a bar or points that fit into slot on each side. Most guitar trems are knife edge in nature and this is the oldest and most proven design.